In the resource section, there was some vague and incomplete instructions on how to open the DA-7 case for maintenance, and in other posts, there were vague instructions on changing the DA-7 battery. Here the full, detailed story, and in addition, how to overcome a problem if the plastic battery clip/bracket (soldered to a circuit board) breaks.

Getting the case open:

1. Turn case so you're facing the back of the DA-7.
2. Remove the meter bridge (if applicable), first unplugging the cable to the desk, then by removing the 2 thick bolts on each side.
3. Throw meter bridge away (just kidding).

NOTE: There are screws located on all 4 sides of the desk. Most are on the sides of the case near the lip of the top of the desk.
- The screws on the back and left and right sides are pan heads with collars.
- The screws on the front of the desk and under the lips of the right and left sides of the desk are regular pan heads.
Warning: The two types don't have the same threads, so get them in the correct locations when you reinstall them or you may strip the holes.
These are the screw locations when facing the back of the desk (FYI - the top is hinged on the front and swings up from the back):

-Right side: 5 screws on the top of side, 3 under upper lip.
-Back: 2 screws above Ramsa name, 1 to the upper right of the name, 1 in the middle, and 1 on the far right.
-Left side: 3 screws on top of side, 4 under upper lip.
-Front: 4 on the upper part of the slanted side.

Tip: Use a good screw driver and apply downward force so you don't strip the heads (the guy that tightened mine must have used an impact driver).
Tip: You can use a 20" stick to keep the lip open (I don't deal in metric, per the other post on case opening). I used a large paint stir stick.

Changing the battery:

It's a circular 2032 battery the size of a quarter, located in the middle of the case about 2/3's in.
Normally you just push on it toward the open side of the little plastic clip, and it slides out, HOWEVER, in these hot cases of older desks, the plastic loses it's flexibility and becomes brittle. In the case of mine, one side of the clip/bracket broke off. The battery would still slip in place, and probably made contact, but with some jolts or moving, it could pop out, and there goes all you mixes and presets.

The Solution if the clips breaks:

I got about 6 inches of some very thin stainless steel aircraft wire I had laying around and folded electrical tape around it, then trimmed all but a little of the excess. I shaped it in a semi-circle and carefully wrapped it around the broken circular battery clip, then held it in place and twisted the ends of the wire until it snugged the battery in place (the wire was very thin and easy to work with). It worked great.

Afterthought: I probably could have used one of those plastic coated twist ties that cables, etc. come bound with.

That's it. I hope this is helpful to the next user that wants to get into that case quickly and easily without any guess work, or needs to change out their battery. Cheers.